Monday, December 1, 2008

Chef Rant, Black Friday, 2008

Okay, I’m thankful for many things, but come on now….

Three occurrences have prompted this blog. And, yes, it has been too
long since my last confession. Sorry, blogreaders, but these tough
times have demanded more of us small business owners than ever
before. Writing continues to be a necessary outlet for me, and
though I usually resist the urge to pontificate or lash out, that
resistance is growing weaker by the day lately.

Perceived injustice has always fascinated me. Outrage comes more
easily for some people, and these people tend to have high ideals and
expectations of others. Many such souls may have felt shunned or
disenfranchised by the status quo for one reason or another. I have
been through periods of angst in my life and rebelled against
authorities and railed against policies I did not understand and done
dumb stuff I have later regretted. But I have always weighed my
perceptions of justice in a greater perspective. In school, essays
on comparative ethics by Bertrand Russell made me question whether
any one perception of justice or set of values is absolutely
correct. In one class, I remember a debate about cannibalism. Is it
right for our tribe (homeless Eurocentric Western Judao-Christian
soldiers) to intervene in another tribe’s ritual because we find it
wantonly barbaric? Was our great nation not built on this principle,
at the cost of uncountable native lives? How are the Mayflower
sailors, religious missionaries and Genghis Khan different?
Discuss. Meanwhile, I’m feeling a little outraged at the imbalance
of justice, unequal distribution of wealth, and mass confusion
befalling American holiday shoppers today.

Okay, here’s my beef. Three things happened on Black Friday that
should serve as mountainous neon billboards for all of us to see. A
WalMart employee on Long Island was trampled to death by surging
masses of rabid holiday shoppers. There was a lethal gunfight
between two shoppers in a California Toys-R-Us. And, virtually no
one walked the streets of Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

The third news item may seem less significant than the previous two,
and of course it is. But as a business owner in a normally
sustainable and relentlessly charming little seaside hamlet, I could
not help but mourn the loss of business in our town (and in my
restaurant, specifically). The day after Thanksgiving, whose
nickname “Black Friday” refers to the first day of the year retail
shops see a profit, should (and usually do) witness gay merrymaking,
public displays of generosity and Capra-esque messengers of holiday
cheer. What it should not witness is Box Store Campers and the
Storming of the Best Deal. I just coined a cool phrase; is anyone
still reading? Get it? Storming of the Best Deal. If you are out
there listening, let me know if you think this spontaneous turn of
phrase is as cool as I think it is. OK, enough. So, violence at
what cost and for what cause? Someone’s life for a limited edition
Wii or X-Box. Shameful.


Fear. We all feel it. We are surrounded by it. We are encouraged
to confront (and therefore augment) it. We wear it like a black
mantle and cower under it until the hobgoblins of worldwide economic
collapse go back in the closet of our imaginations.

There is a Malthusian argument to be made about all this burdensome
phobia going around. In these dire times, our excesses will be
trimmed, weaker competition will disappear, the strong will survive,
and we will emerge all the better for having suffered a little.
Surely that’s a painfully valid viewpoint, but it’s not very human
now, is it? And this being the season of compassion and giving, we
should probably put our selfish fears aside and get out there and
live a normal life.

All of this to say that we Black Trumpeters are pitching to you, the
general populace, a concept that I think makes sense. Every Sunday
through Thursday during December, we will extend our Flight Night
Tasting Menu concept but gear it more toward the soup and sandwich
crowd. Denise and I are constantly battling the perception that
Black Trumpet is an expensive restaurant, when in reality our prices
are reasonable, our portions generous, and the overall value
excellent. Our average menu item is $14 for Christmas’ sake.

Please take note that nowhere in this blog do I mention that a gift
certificate to Black Trumpet makes the perfect holiday gift. Which,
of course it does.

Until next time, eat local, buy local, be local. Your community
needs you just as much as you need it.

Happy holidays from all of us at Black Trumpet.

12 comments:

Chef Jeff Tenner said...

Is anyone out there listening to Evan's plea??? I know that I am. First of all...let's be honest Evan's a better cook then most of you out there, so save yourselves the trouble and let him feed you. He'll do the dishes too, which means less work for you. We all need you to keep eating out; you'll be glad you did. Food cooked from the heart nourishes the soul...and when the news is filled with doom and gloom, that's the perfect rememdy. We're there for you when it's time to celebrate, so come be with us now and let's celebrate the joy of food and drink. Be well, eat well, live well!

Unknown said...

I don't live nearby in Portsmouth being in Bedford, but will do the drive across Rte 101 and dine at the Trumpet at our first opportunity. I also can't wait for the book "The Kitchen at 29 Ceres Street" to be published. Those wall definitely have stories to tell...

Unknown said...

my wife and i plan on visiting the black trumpet for our next date night. Eating out is something we will not give up, regardless of the economic conditions. Also, I tend to avoid chain restaurants. Chin up, I have many friends whom share my position on dining out...

Does the book have the Blue Strawberry Turkey recipe? it is delicious.

Ken said...

Your argument in the sixth paragraph is not Malthusian.

Chef Jeff Tenner said...

Ken,
While Evan's comment may not fall into your definition of Malthusian, I think you can appreciate his struggle (as a former chef at the famed 29 Ceres Street). How about a little encouragement for our colleague???

Ken said...

Jeff:

Although I stand by my critic re Malthus, I understand Evan's angst.

I too would encourage those on the fence to dine out like rock stars. Throw caution to the wind. Have fun, its about all we have these days.

While I have not had the pleasure of Mr. Mallet's cuisine, I am sure its the best thing going on the seacoast. So if eating is in your future, as I suspect it is, let me suggest Black Trumpet.

I like the idea of the three course fixed price menu. I think that is a solid deal.

KGE

Unknown said...

Storming of the Best Deal.. Liberate the overstocks! I love it.

Evan, if times get tough in Portsmouth, consider opening shop in DC. This town never suffers a recession, but a paucity of inspiring restaurants, and I'd sure do my best to see that your tables are full as much as possible.

Jtenner, good to see you here too. I was thinking about my dinner menu for my friends here tomorrow, and got nostalgic for the Lindbergh's and Ciento kitchens, which brought me to this blog message board. Not sure if you remember my brief tenure, but I sure remember the skills and stories from your kitchens.

Liberte, fraternite, et gastronomie!

Chef Jeff Tenner said...

Jason,
Of course I remember you. I am in DC often and agree that Evan's food would be well received. In some ways his style and flavors remind me of Jose Andre's Zaytinya Restaurant. And now for a selfish plug (Evan, please forgive me!). Check out my blog, inspired by life from the test kitchen - http://cheftennerweekly.blogspot.com/

Check it out...
Best Wishes in the New Year!

Unknown said...

Thanks Jeff! I'll add your blog to my regular list. I do enjoy Zaytinya and agree on the comparison. Along the same lines, Komi is possibly the best place for a seasonal-local-inspired meal, though a little less accessible on the price and availability fronts. There is definitely room in the market, Evan!

Happy New Year to both of you too!

Seacoast_NH said...

First of all, Evan, you are a fantastic chef. Unfortunately, I feel the reason for empty tables has more to do with Portsmouth palate than recession.

New menu items featuring atypical proteins are great as long as your old standbys, such as Steak Au Poivre, etc., are still included. Restauranteurs must cater to the desires of customers, not only to their own whims. There is such a thing as being too trendy and creative. Not all locals are adventurous diners and if there are not enough familiar choices, a split-in-taste party will do just that, split!

Advice is a funny thing, wise men don't need it and fools don't heed it. Good luck.

brewdoc said...

Evan,

Love the menu, love the food! Keep doing what you are doing! There is a serious void in the area for GOOD spanish/meditteranean food. We will definitely be in to see you soon.

Brian Liddy MD

Jeffe said...

I recently found The Black Trumpet website through wxgrfm.org, and I'm glad I did! The "stimulus package" sounds like what the doctor ordered. I'll be by this Wednesday with a friend to partake and enjoy the atmosphere.

I'm going to overcome my fear of recession and go for it.

By the way, great Flickr photos attached to your page! Seeing those colorfuls piqued my interest.